THE ONCE UPON A TIME WORLD

For a small slice of geography, the French Riviera has cast a long shadow, and it is one of wealth, style, and decadence.

Miles, the author of a string of well-received books, describes The Once Upon a Time World as “the second volume of an informal trilogy dedicated to phenomenal places created by strangers”; the first was St Petersburg: Three Centuries of Murderous Desire. The Riviera is a strip of land, including the microstate of Monaco, nestled between the azure waters of the Mediterranean and the stunning foothills of the Alps. It was Englishman Lord Brougham who started the show in 1835, with the idea of building a health resort for the well-to-do. The plan was successful, and over time the guest list extended to artists and writers, many of whom liked the sexual freedom available. Picasso, Coco Chanel, F. Scott Fitzgerald, Cole Porter, and Stravinsky spent considerable time there. Even Karl Marx, and later Harpo Marx, put in an appearance. The lush casinos attracted high rollers, and American money and celebrities poured in. The Riviera fared badly during World War II, but there was a resurgence in the 1950s and 1960s, with Hollywood stars leading the way. Grace Kelly married into Monaco royalty, sealing the bond. But the good times could not last. Eventually, overdevelopment turned much of the scenery into concrete, and the area became increasingly known for crime, corruption, and money laundering. Tourism is the main business of the area, but it runs mainly on nostalgia and pleasant weather. Miles suggests that a recovery is possible, but he sounds more hopeful than convincing. Looking back, the long heyday of the Riviera seems like a fantasy story, replete with colorful and unlikely characters. And it’s a story that, perhaps, starts with “once upon a time, there was a beautiful beach….”

Miles obviously has a great time recounting the history of the Riviera, making the book an enjoyable, absorbing read.