Dannenbaum, a well-known Philadelphia cooking teacher, has milked this approach before in Fast and Fresh (1981) and More Fast and Fresh (1983). And a moderately inventive cook could come up with some pretty similar ideas on the basis of other, more inclusive Italian cook books. But those who want some ready-programmed ideas of moderate flair can hardly go wrong with fried mozzarella, grilled open-faced ham and cheese (i.e., prosciutto and Fontina) sandwiches, fried potatoes with sweet peppers and rosemary, or mushroom consommÃ‰. Many of the offerings are dubiously Italian. ""My Italian friends would cringe,"" Dannenbaum candidly writes of a melted goat-cheese sauce of purest California antecedents, served with broccoli. She also correctly characterizes pasta salads as ""an American fad"" before going on to provide a spotty selection. On the other hand, who could remain unmoved by a true South Philly-style hoagie? Pleasant, a bit faddish, cheerfully inautentico.