Once again, Kay Nelson offers a highly serviceable, unfussy collection of recipes. Here the bowls run from classic (Caesar, Chef, Waldorf) to lesser-known (Rumanian Leek and Mushroom) and from commonplace (varieties of chicken and potato salads) to dinner-party-exotic. For enthusiasts, there's an entire section devoted to fruit and molded salads; other chapters cover seasonal specialties, main and side dish salads, and basic dressings--vinaigrette, mayonnaise, Turkish yogurt, Russian sour cream. As in her several previous cookbooks, she shows a basic respect for authenticity along with an informed willingness to use substitutes for elusive ingredients. No toss-up--this is crisp and fresh throughout.