KEN FRANK'S LA TOQUE COOKBOOK

From the owner-chef at L.A.'s La Toque restaurant, a selection of recipes for food that the publishers describe, accurately enough, as fresh and sophisticated American-French cuisine. It's decidedly upscale, conceived and executed with flair, for cooks who go for ``elegant'' entertaining and don't mind the costs or the preliminary preparation (several recipes, for example, call for veal broth, a French restaurant staple less ubiquitous in home kitchens here). Salads include one of hot eels and one using three different duck preparations; there are first courses of cream- sauced fish; main dishes include venison with wine-poached pears, breast of duck with apples and Calvados, and boneless rabbit with morels. Frank's Brillat-Savarin cheese with fresh truffle debuted at a Baron de Rothchild $650-a-plate Best-of-Ten-Decades dinner; and for dessert there's an acknowledged ``demanding'' chocolate gÇnoise/chocolate mousse called ``the zigzag.'' Haute. (Line drawings throughout.)