CAFÉ FRENCH

A food writer delves into the myths and realities of the classic Parisian cafe.

Harris (Foodoodles, 2010) first came to Paris to study abroad in 1963 and continued to visit, spending months at a time there between 2011 and 2015 while working for an online food journal. Like many writers and travelers throughout the 20th century, the author considers himself a Francophile and would-be expatriate. In his new book, he weaves together journal entries, restaurant critiques, and personal drawings that all center on Paris’ famous sidewalk cafes and his experiences of them. He begins with an in-depth look at flâneurs, those artsy and often well-dressed 19th-century figures who made strolling and people-watching into an institution, before sizing up the current conditions of the Parisian cafe, finding the classic institution under threat from cringeworthy croque monsieurs. As he compiles his cafe index, Harris muses on garçons (surly Paris waiters) and the oddities of the French language, illustrating the striking similarities between “foie” (liver) and “foi” (faith) with delightfully irreverent cartoons. Harris also spends considerable time reflecting on his home in Berkeley, California, and how the cafe’s allure has touched the world. Throughout the book, the author employs witty wordplay that is sure to delight his fellow Francophiles, throwing in n’est-ce pas and très for slightly pretentious but still charming comedic effect. His writing is strongest as a pure travelogue, diving into particular meals, like his 85 euro roast chicken at Chez l’Ami Louis. His forays into academic and historical analysis are somewhat less successful. The writers, ideas, and even the specific, hypercentral cafes that Harris concentrates on will already be well known to true lovers of la vie Parisienne. It is a shame readers do not get more of the author’s sharp perspective (and amusing artwork) focused on Paris’ less famous sidewalks, but readers less well versed in the city’s lore will start to see what all the fuss is about.

A clever and entertaining introduction to Paris’ cafe culture.