THE MA CUISINE COOKING SCHOOL COOKBOOK

Cofounded in the mid-70's by Patrick Terrail of Ma Maison and the now-famous Wolfgang Puck, the Ma Cuisine cooking school was conceived as a ""culinary clubhouse"" for L.A.-based chefs. The dizzing diversity of its members is the keynote of this cookbook, which features dishes from all their restaurants and retains, over a decade later, the innovative zip we now associate with California's cross-bred cuisine. ""Thai pizza,"" ""chili relleno with mushroom duxelles and garlic chevre sauce,"" and a French-style flan are examples of what's been going on out there; though the offerings can be as plain and accent-free as sliced roasted potatoes. In their advance publicity package (as good a selection as any), the editors feature an impressive salmon tartare with smoked salmon mousse from L'Orangerie, a home-style Mexican seviche from City Restaurant, a barbecued Chicken pizza with Gouda and cilantro by pizza-wizard Ed La Dou, fried rice from Mon Kee, and an aptly named, Texas-style ""Kick Ass Chili"" from 72 Market Street. Most of these creations are relatively easy to prepare; and though some staid back-Easterners with a low tolerance for flair might reject the overdose of California chic, many will find the atmosphere infectious.