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THE SORCERER'S APPRENTICES

A SEASON IN THE KITCHEN AT FERRAN ADRIÀ'S ELBULLI

A slow-motion gastronomical feast and a rare chance for gourmet enthusiasts to witness the creative process behind some of...

Granted unprecedented access to the inner workings of perhaps the world’s most renowned restaurant, Time magazine Spain correspondent Abend follows 35 apprentices through the rigors of kitchen life and culinary invention under the tutelage of the “most famous chef in the world.”

Few restaurants are more revered than elBulli in Catalonia, Spain, a five-time winner of Restaurant magazine’s Best Restaurant in the World. Its owner-chef, Ferran Adrià, who has three Michelin stars, is universally recognized as the most influential pioneer of the avant-garde cuisine movement sometimes known as “molecular gastronomy,” a seriously playful style of cooking emphasizing textural, visual, olfactory and gustatory wit and deconstruction. It was at elBulli that Adrià and his chefs Eduard Xatruch and Oriol Castro invented those startling savory foams, liquid-nitrogen sorbets and spherified sauces that “permi[t] the diner to eat liquids, not drink them.” Getting a table at elBulli is the gourmet equivalent of winning the lottery, and the cooks who come to work—as unpaid apprentices—in its kitchens start out thinking themselves just as lucky. Ostensibly, these apprentices—the stagiaires—are the story’s focus. We learn about their lives, career aspirations and frustrations with the surprisingly tedious work required. Unfortunately, few of the stagiaires ever come to life enough for the reader to care, and the narrative occasionally wanders. No wonder, perhaps: Like the fresh apprentices, Abend seems too awestruck by Adrià’s genius to do more than offer praise. In a typical formulation, she claims, for example, that his work “represents the greatest rupture ever in the history of cuisine.” Nonetheless, Adrià isn’t the real hero—it’s the food. The author provides countless descriptions of an undeniably dazzling creative process and of foods that, even on paper, have the power to delight and amuse.

A slow-motion gastronomical feast and a rare chance for gourmet enthusiasts to witness the creative process behind some of the world’s most innovative cuisine.

Pub Date: March 22, 2011

ISBN: 978-1-4391-7555-2

Page Count: 256

Publisher: Free Press

Review Posted Online: Jan. 8, 2011

Kirkus Reviews Issue: Jan. 15, 2011

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IN MY PLACE

From the national correspondent for PBS's MacNeil-Lehrer Newshour: a moving memoir of her youth in the Deep South and her role in desegregating the Univ. of Georgia. The eldest daughter of an army chaplain, Hunter-Gault was born in what she calls the ``first of many places that I would call `my place' ''—the small village of Due West, tucked away in a remote little corner of South Carolina. While her father served in Korea, Hunter-Gault and her mother moved first to Covington, Georgia, and then to Atlanta. In ``L.A.'' (lovely Atlanta), surrounded by her loving family and a close-knit black community, the author enjoyed a happy childhood participating in activities at church and at school, where her intellectual and leadership abilities soon were noticed by both faculty and peers. In high school, Hunter-Gault found herself studying the ``comic-strip character Brenda Starr as I might have studied a journalism textbook, had there been one.'' Determined to be a journalist, she applied to several colleges—all outside of Georgia, for ``to discourage the possibility that a black student would even think of applying to one of those white schools, the state provided money for black students'' to study out of state. Accepted at Michigan's Wayne State, the author was encouraged by local civil-rights leaders to apply, along with another classmate, to the Univ. of Georgia as well. Her application became a test of changing racial attitudes, as well as of the growing strength of the civil-rights movement in the South, and Gault became a national figure as she braved an onslaught of hostilities and harassment to become the first black woman to attend the university. A remarkably generous, fair-minded account of overcoming some of the biggest, and most intractable, obstacles ever deployed by southern racists. (Photographs—not seen.)

Pub Date: Nov. 1, 1992

ISBN: 0-374-17563-2

Page Count: 192

Publisher: Farrar, Straus and Giroux

Review Posted Online: May 19, 2010

Kirkus Reviews Issue: Sept. 1, 1992

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A LITTLE HISTORY OF POETRY

Necessarily swift and adumbrative as well as inclusive, focused, and graceful.

A light-speed tour of (mostly) Western poetry, from the 4,000-year-old Gilgamesh to the work of Australian poet Les Murray, who died in 2019.

In the latest entry in the publisher’s Little Histories series, Carey, an emeritus professor at Oxford whose books include What Good Are the Arts? and The Unexpected Professor: An Oxford Life in Books, offers a quick definition of poetry—“relates to language as music relates to noise. It is language made special”—before diving in to poetry’s vast history. In most chapters, the author deals with only a few writers, but as the narrative progresses, he finds himself forced to deal with far more than a handful. In his chapter on 20th-century political poets, for example, he talks about 14 writers in seven pages. Carey displays a determination to inform us about who the best poets were—and what their best poems were. The word “greatest” appears continually; Chaucer was “the greatest medieval English poet,” and Langston Hughes was “the greatest male poet” of the Harlem Renaissance. For readers who need a refresher—or suggestions for the nightstand—Carey provides the best-known names and the most celebrated poems, including Paradise Lost (about which the author has written extensively), “Kubla Khan,” “Ozymandias,” “The Charge of the Light Brigade,” Wordsworth and Coleridge’s Lyrical Ballads, which “changed the course of English poetry.” Carey explains some poetic technique (Hopkins’ “sprung rhythm”) and pauses occasionally to provide autobiographical tidbits—e.g., John Masefield, who wrote the famous “Sea Fever,” “hated the sea.” We learn, as well, about the sexuality of some poets (Auden was bisexual), and, especially later on, Carey discusses the demons that drove some of them, Robert Lowell and Sylvia Plath among them. Refreshingly, he includes many women in the volume—all the way back to Sappho—and has especially kind words for Marianne Moore and Elizabeth Bishop, who share a chapter.

Necessarily swift and adumbrative as well as inclusive, focused, and graceful.

Pub Date: April 21, 2020

ISBN: 978-0-300-23222-6

Page Count: 304

Publisher: Yale Univ.

Review Posted Online: Feb. 8, 2020

Kirkus Reviews Issue: March 1, 2020

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