MRS, APPLEYARD'S KITCHEN

Entertaining trivia spun on the thread of cookery, but not as definitely a cookbook as Marjorie Kinnan Rawling's Cross Creek Cookery. She stresses the what-not-to-do's but does not omit the how-to-do's, and succeeds in presenting a record of successful experiments as well as standard dishes without ever becoming matter-of-fact listing of recipes and directions. In the tone of Mrs. Appleyard's Year she comments on extraneous matters, as she marshals her data from beverages to baking, uses of cheese, desserts, eggs, preparing menus, putting up preserves, and so on. To be sure, this for the connoisseur who cares to give more of care, attention and ingredients than wartime pressure and economics indicate. But it is definitely mouth-watering. With this as a New England appetite whetter -- and Cross Creek Cookery for Southern tastes, the Fall has already a good balance in readable gourmandism.