Burros has moved, with the times, from The Elegant But Easy Cookbook (1967) to Pure & Simple (1978) to joint consideration of nutrition, safety, taste, and time. First scoring food-industry follies, she then presents 61 meals ""from scratch"" (usually, for two or three persons). The organization, the book's outstanding feature, includes: season of the year, brief introduction, ""game plan,"" staples needed, shopping list, and recipes for each dish. Dessert is fruit or a purchased item, but in case you have an extra ten minutes, a few quick sweets (and some hors d'oeuvres) are added. There's no night-before cheating, however, though a canny cook will add ten-to-fifteen minutes to be on the safe side; otherwise, Burros has done all the thinking for you. A well-integrated compendium, then, not of new ideas but of good ones--which falls between Jean Hewitt's Family Circle Quick Menu Cookbook and Pierre Franey's New York Times 60-Minute Gourmet in terms of culinary sophistication.