THE WILD FLAVOR

Mrs. Kluger's rhapsodies on the thrill of pawpaw picking or maple sugaring or harvesting a trove of woodland mushrooms may not inspire you to pluck and gather yourself but some of her recipes -- maple barbecue spareribs or sour cream elderberry pie -- sound marvelous. But not all. Who would seriously consider batter-fried dandelion blossoms or cattail-pollen pancakes except to flu up space in a cookbook paying faddish obeisance to Mother Nature's plenitude? Urbanites will feel discriminated against and even farm folk will probably prefer Betty Crocker's cakes to Don's Irish Moss Seaweed Pudding.