By combining a down-to-earth style with the principles of balanced protein set out by Lappe in Diet for a Small Planet, Martha Shulman has produced an appealing and worthwhile book of vegetarian fare. She begins with the ingredients (including eggs and dairy products), kitchen equipment (wok or frying pan), cooking techniques (blanching, steaming), and pointers on group entertaining, and follows with nine course-by-course recipe chapters highlighting breads, soups, main dishes, and so on. All this is explained in a clear, comfortable way, free of preachy ""vegetarianism."" Shulman's tastes range through many cuisines, notably Chinese, Mexican, and Italian; she covers well-known dishes--guacamole, ratatouille--as well as less conventional fare like miso-vegetable soup and spinach baclava. Special ingredients are sometimes called for, but they would not be indispensable to the book's enjoyment by the dabbler or the devotee.