"I've always felt that garlic and olive oil were in my blood," writes Shulman, whose several more-or-less vegetarian cookbooks (Supper Club Chez Martha Rose, 1988; etc.) have exhibited a welcome talent for serving up food that is lusty and healthful at once. Still, despite her declaration--and despite recent findings associating olive oil with healthy hearts--Shulman uses the stuff very sparingly here, adapting traditional Mediterranean fare (from France, Spain, North Africa, the Middle East) to reduce fat and calories, and omitting dishes such as pesto that require lots of oil. In fact, though Schulman's sensible potato gratin is as tasty a mouthful as the richer original, some of her pasta dishes can seem abstemious in their leanness. But, overall, these flavor-rich foods, from smoky eggplant purÇe to figs poached in Madiera, are as pleasing to the eye and the taste buds as they are easy on the figure and the arteries.