THE INTERNATIONAL CHILI SOCIETY OFFICIAL CHILI COOKBOOK

Anything goes at the official chili society contests, where a winning entry might contain vitamin E capsules (an Oklahoma champion), MSG (perpetrated in Tahiti), chutney (a British entry), or kangaroo meat (the contribution, we're told, of two Australian tennis players). In addition to the local and international winners, the Neelys throw in some celebrity chilis, some classic departures (such as Ohio's Chili Mac and Cincinnati Chili with chocolate), some uninspired ethnic mixes (an ""Italian"" version with eggplant and zucchini, an ""Oriental Chili"" with beansprouts and bamboo shoots), some untempting ""chili cousins"" on the order of chili-tuna-noodle casserole, and an odd variety of Mex, Tex-Mex, near-Mex, and non-Mex (Louisiana French toast) food and drinks to go with chili. Unfortunately for the Neelys, Bill Bridges' Great American Chili Book got here first, with the most extensive and entertaining chili lore and probably the best collection of true chili recipes. Bridges comes through, too, with Wick Fowler's original 2-Alarm Chili recipe, whereas the Neelys' version requires that we buy the Fowler 2-Alarm mix; and Bridges also gives us H. Allen Smith's final, perfected recipe. On the other hand, however, the Neely entry includes Smith's famous Holiday article which kicked off the first annual chili contest in 1867. For that, for some of the winners, and just as a phenomenon in the great American chili culture, this society-sponsored entry will hold its own.