A pleasant guide to Portugal which begins with a general appreciation and winds up with a whirlwind tour through cities and countryside. Portugal, declares the author, is ""the wild garden of Europe""; the people are kind and gracious, the inroads of industrial blight negligible, the food and wine delicious, the fado (traditional ballads) delightfully melancholy. Miss Kempner tucks up the checkered history of Portugal in a lengthy chapter, but unfortunately, or perhaps discreetly, since she is a commuting aficionado, there is no run-down (or even talk up) of current political attitudes. However, there are trips to the bull ring (where the bulls are not slaughtered--only in privacy a day later); to wine country, to religious and royal, buildings and artifacts. The book closes with a journal of invigorating travel. Essentially tailored for the tourist, this is an informal, causal exploration.