Remember pickled eggs in beet juice? lamb and lentil soup? goulash? pierogi? potato latkes? herring and apple salad? cafe ricotta? lemon ice? glogg? Few of us remember all these recipes, but Wilde has delved into the collective American memory for this range of traditional ethnic dishes, ""food you serve right out of the pot."" Mostly imported from Europe with the babushka, the recipes also include such down-home natives as chicken and okra gumbo; such Caribbean specialties as black beans and rice, now a New Vegetarian staple; and such recent conquerers as pita bread, which is becoming as American as pizza pie. There are other breads, as well as pastas, phyllo dough, noodles, and dumplings, all homemade from scratch. The recipes appear to be conscientiously authentic (rejected, Wilde tells us, were such items as Mrs. Berman's Jewish la-sagne with American cheese)--internationalism with the accent on shared nostalgia rather than continental sophistication.