Those who adore pasta and wish to venture beyond the standard restaurant sauces--meat, clam, marinara--should find this just the thing to set them on their way. Instructions are given for making and cutting tagliatelle, gnocchi, ravioli and the other distinctive noodle shapes; but even those who settle for store-bought pasta can experiment with the old-country sauces. Cuttlefish, mushrooms, sweetbreads, olives, ham and peas and other unexpected ingredients make for startling taste combinations. Everyone may not be ready for Lenten spaghetti with walnuts and sugar, but it's liberating to know that there are many, many substitutes for meatballs. A word of caution: try these recipes on your family before making them for guests.