THE ORGANIC YENTA

After recovering from the mild headache brought on by the title, if you persevere you will find some good vegetarian recipes with a not obtrusive emphasis on the use of natural foods. In her introduction, after a survey of kitchen equipment and arrangement, the author outlines her model pursuit of ""organic"" foods with a reminder that one should keep a close check on health food stores. There are discussions of home-made staples like mayonnaise, yogurt and ""jiffy"" jams and jellies. Then follow recipes for breads, side and main dishes (featuring vegetables, pasta, fish and shellfish), salads, sandwiches, and desserts. Not as much cream sauce here as in many traditional vegetarian cookbooks, but Ms. Goldsmith is a more sophisticated cook than she admits, so it's a good idea to approach these recipes with some experience to offset her short cuts -- ""Cook the lentils with the soy sauce"" is just not enough help for a novice. Use with judgment.