THE LAST SWEET BITE

An examination of the role political violence plays in shaping culinary traditions around the world.

The Indigenous peoples of the Great Plains thrived on a diet that included bison—until, that is, the U.S. Army opened the door to the extermination of the species and the loss of that long interaction. Today, as international human rights activist Shaikh writes, Native American chefs and food historians are working to restore some of those traditions, as with one Pueblo entrepreneur who follows the traditional view that “people are withinand partof their ecosystem, not separate from it.” Food is often wielded as a weapon: Shaikh writes, for example, of the German right-wing Alternative für Deutschland party’s campaign to promote alcohol and pork with an ad campaign showing baby pigs and the slogan, “Islam? It doesn’t fit in with our cuisine.” In Xinjiang, Han Chinese impose pig raising on the Muslim Uyghur population, knowing full well, as Shaikh writes, that “it’s hard to exaggerate how much Uyghurs are repulsed by pigs.” Not just a cultural shibboleth, food speaks to who holds power and who doesn’t: As Shaikh writes of once-iconic Czech cuisine, when the Nazis arrived they feasted on meat, confining Czechs to “flour dumplings and thin, watery sauces.” There, too, Czech traditionalists are doing much to restore a cuisine battered by the Nazi invaders’ rule on the one hand and “decades of communist conformity” on the other. Shaikh travels the world to portray loss and recovery, documenting how Rohingya refugees from Myanmar are laboring to keep their food traditions from disappearing, how Czech farmers are rediscovering the virtues of “fresh Moravian asparagus, both the white and green varieties,” and more—with the bonus of recipes from his interlocutors.

A revealing inquiry at the intersection of food, culture, war, and power politics.