THE ART OF FISH COOKERY

Here and now (or rather on March 10) I'll transfer my allegiance from the Brown's Fish and Sea Food Cook Book to this new guide to my favorite food: (Yes, I'm one of those odd people who could eat fish every day and never weary.) But there's one test this book failed to pass -- at least I missed it, if it is there. And that is a rule about broiling skin side up or flesh side up- first- and I'm bothered by it every time I put a mackerel on the broiler! However, let's not be captious with a book that offers not only a rich feast of ideas for fish cookery, but basic fundamentals on purchase, selection, preparation, on how to serve, on sauces and salads, on broths and chowders and stews, on entrees, sandwiches and canapes. Fresh water fish, salt water fish, shellfish- all are here, and the arrangement within each main heading, is alphabetical. Add this to your cookbook shelf- and use it.