Glaser and Snyder have authored a popular paperback gourmet guide to New York City's ethnic restaurants; this time they have revisited a selection from their first rounds and come away with recipes for house specialties. There is a brief profile of each eatery--of necessity, laudatory--and tributes to owners, managers and chefs. Then follow directions for dishes from a wide variety of persuasions: from Japanese Kakiage (shrimp cakes) to Spetsoda (a Greek fish melange); from a Philippine Chicken Adobo to Pillaw (an Indian saffron rice) and so on. The problem as always with restaurant recipes is that very often the skills applied to cooking for large groups of people are not necessarily appropriate for small family or guest meals brought forth from the standard American kitchen. Also the ingredients bought in bulk often have a different quality (and price) than those bought at a gourmet shop or heaven knows where--where for example are you going to get that ""fine bulgur oil"" for the Tabbouleh? But for the persevering gourmet cook--this may offer some challenges and delights.