Asquith, who has already mined other specialty-topics (croissants, fruit tarts, chocolate cakes), is after what might be better called ""The Gourmet Chic of Pizza."" She provides a modicum of sensible service information on ingredients, equipment, and procedures. In the recipes, however, there are an awful lot of modish ingredients and odd seasoning touches. Surely there are better things to do with squid than grind it in a food processor with egg and bread crumbs, put little balls of the stuff on the dough, and call the result ""Calamari Quenelles Pizza."" A nice topping of green peppers and bacon is jazzed up with pineapple chunks; a mixture of curry powder and tomato sauce goes on broccoli for ""a variation on a classic Indian curry."" The best things here are the simplest--plain pizza dough topped with olive oil and rosemary, a quasi-Mexican hybrid with sweet peppers, jalapenos, and jack cheese, pizza with homemade fennel sausage. Those seriously interested in the subject will probably want to wait for a contribution from the Chez Panisse crew in Berkeley, scheduled for June.