JUST GOOD FOOD

Rubinstein's newest cookbook doesn't have the angle of his others--Feasts for Two, Feasts for Twelve, The Night Before Cookbook--but it does offer the same kind of unfussy, popularly appealing recipes. Like tomatoes stuffed with tuna salad, eggs benedict, chicken croquettes, or grilled loin lamb chops. Even the more ambitious ones--poached bass, gefilte fish, homemade ravioli--won't daunt the less experienced: the numbered directions are precise enough and easy enough to follow. The fish and shellfish section is stronger than the meat chapter (and assumes access to a flesh supply), the vegetables and salads somewhat limited, although they will please many palates. No food processor or exotic ingredients required--just the fundamentals.