PEARL'S KITCHEN

Voluble Pearl Bailey tells ""approximately"" -- very approximately -- how she puts together her favorite soul food and miscellaneous international specialties. Pearl does have some sensible ideas (as distinguished from recipes) for making simple food with style, but mostly what she offers is a well developed philosophy of how a home should be run and advice on how to wield the authority in the kitchen necessary to keep the rest of the family in line. Nor is she at a loss for anecdotes about dining with her fellow stars or her superclean Mother's penchant for ironing dust rags. Pearl likes simple substantial food, a single standard of graciousness for family and company alike, and good talk. She's sure to be welcome company over morning coffee and to elicit knowing smiles from women who share her stalwart opinions.