Well yes, the very idea of take-out food is not to cook. But if you can't get enough of the Black Forest's (Cambridge) pesto tortellini or the Zucchini Mulfaletta Salad from Poulet (Berkeley); if you've heard of Dean & DeLuca's (Soho and East Hampton) but don't expect to get there; or if you simply wish to sample a Florida chicken-sausage gumbo or a shrimp-quiche creole from Chicago (yes, Chicago) . . . well, here they all are, really not all that much trouble to make yourself and generally well worth the candle. Try the Trois Petits Cochons' (NYC) scallop mousse and you'll never go back to Arthur Treacher's.