OW!! Avert your eyes from the title and go on to the recipes. This is simply an invaluable tool for the (very) serious cook; we know of no comparable work for American audiences. The emphasis is on the derivatives of sauce espagnole (brown sauce) and the veloutes (veal, chicken, fish). Sokolov gives monumentally complete directions for the entire awesome process of making, thickening, completing, and freezing Brobdingnagian quantities of demi-glace and jus de veau lie, the indispensable bases for dozens of mighty sauces. He also treats the less demanding white stocks and fumets with their progeny. There are briefer accounts of dessert sauces, the bechamel family, and emulsified sauces (hollandaise, mayonnaise), as well as a generous variety of finished dishes incorporating the basic sauce recipes. Only a handful of cooks will have the time, money, equipment, and gumption to tackle the brown sauces, especially in the staggering quantities given here. The sauces meres recipes also assume unlimited freezer capacity. A unique aid for the really dedicated cuisiniere; it will be of little use to the ordinarily harried, hurried, and faint-hearted.