THE WHITE HOUSE CHEF COOKBOOK

The author spent five years of the Kennedy administration in charge of the Presidential kitchen, which he describes, along with the First Family's food preferences, notable dinner guests, and his own qualifications for the job. A pate-to-French pastry group of recipes--far from fancy, most of them (Jackie got excited about green beans with almonds). Seafood, poultry and desserts are especially attractive, also the inevitable ""French cooking depends on sauces"" section. A dignified (no reference to his terminal ordeal with the Johnsons) but unintimidating selection, for browers and memorabilists more than climber toward haute cuisine.