Though basically uncomplicated, all of these specialities tend to be regarded as piÃ¨ces de rÃ¨sistance by a sizable contingent, while appealing to a widespread love of suave textures. The minority that finds gelatin-based cold souffles, mousses, and aspics a bit sickly at best certainly won't want this book; and it must be said that some of Ackart's creations (jellied babaghanouj, cold peppermint-stick souffle, chutney mousse, sauerkraut in aspic with grapes) represent less than happy combinations of taste and texture. Still, there are some pleasant dishes under each of the main categories, the best being hot main-dish souffles (try the hominy souffle, or the onion-cheese one with beer) and a few of the custard desserts like zabaglione or pots de crÃªme. And though the large selection of aspics and jellies will not be to all tastes, Ackart's recipes for various aspic bases are at least a cut above anything based on pre-flavored commercial gelatins. So-so.