Since ""natural"" and ""organic"" became household words, the cooking with fruit concept has caught on hugely -- even if some of the cookbooks we've seen have been, well, fruity. Ackart, however, is no faddist, and most of the recipes here are ""classics"" of European, Oriental or Midhe Eastern cuisine. Since Americans are still reluctant to put peaches and pears in meat dishes, she includes traditional cobblers, pies and cakes but the emphasis is on using fruit with lamb, beef, chicken, veal and vegetables. The recipes range from a Flemish pork and apple ragout prepared with beer to an ornate and improbable Indian beef dish made with figs, raisins and cashews. The fruit soups, either Chinese or Scandinavian, will be a revelation to those looking for an unusual first course. Less adventurous souls will draw the line at the notion that fish filets and cherries have a natural affinity for each other, but what with the exotic, spicy relishes, the pllafs and Christmas puddings and mincemeats there should be something here for almost everyone, though it will help if, like the author, you have your own orchard.