A WORLD OF SALADS

Green salads, Egg and Cheese Salads, Pasta, Rice and Bulgur Salads. . . and, yes, Fruit and Nut Salads. But Swedlin begins with a basic selection of greens (Arugula to Watercress), suggests an array of garnishes, and seriously considers the qualities of oil and vinegar before moving on to the refinements--dressings and dips. The most extensive selection, however, is on Single-Vegetable Salads--not only A to Z (Artichokes to Zucchini), but from all points of the compass. Venturesome cooks who've recently discovered Celery Root, or Celeriac, can prepare it Danish-fashion--with whipped cream, mayonnaise, and mustard--or in tart Rumanian style, garnished with black olives and sour pickles. But, for families still loyal to Tuna Fish Salad, or cooks in search of an honest, no-goop Potato Salad, Swedlin provides classic recipes too. It's simple, elegant cosmopolitan cookery--sans picturesque patter or snob flourishes.