SCHLEPPING THROUGH THE ALPS

Hanging out with a shepherd, journalist Apple explores the complex relationship between Austria and its Jewish inhabitants, one that doesn’t fit neatly into prescribed categories.

Hans Beuer is a Yiddish folksinger as well as the guardian of 625 sheep, a wandering Jew in the Austrian Alps. But Beuer is not some idyllic, elderly folkloric artifact; he is a man of 45 with a cell phone, a background in radical Jewish politics, a wife who no longer communes with him, and a mission to spread Yiddish culture in a country that voted into power a far-far-right politician with the shadows of Nazism hovering all about him. There are idyllic moments in the gorgeous, comforting Alpine landscape filled with wildflowers, streams, and snow-capped peaks, particularly when Beuer sings to his sheep. His reasons for song, however, are thoroughly modern: he has to calm the fretful animals so he can move them through a world in which high-country sheep cause consternation in the urban populace. And he aspires to take Yiddish culture into (at least) the next decade. Himself the recipient of a fulsome Jewish upbringing, with fond memories of a grandmother who “was reestablishing the order of the shtetl in suburban Houston,” Apple is fascinated by Beuer. Their travels bring the author face to face with any measure of Austrian anti-Semitism, and Apple discovers that the country’s gentiles are deeply ambivalent about reparations to Jewish families. But he also visits ancient Jewish town like Judenburg, and he reminds us that Austria took in Jews when the US would not. His narrative is a tumultuous mix of Nazis and neighbors, art and sex, cars and sheep, a Jewish grandmother in Houston and a girlfriend in Vienna.

As true a litmus strip as any of a country whose future hangs in strange and precarious balance. (Photos throughout)