Since farmers have been slaughtering their livestock in protest at Butz' Law (let them eat ?), it's not the most propitious time for a meat cookbook and the European flavor of this one limits its appeal for the average American on a shrinking recession budget. True, Roggero uses all the variety meats from liver, tongue and kidneys to lung, tripe and whole calf's head -- but will Junior eat them? And her recipes for woodcock, snipe, hare and partridge sound delicious -- but the fraction of urbanite hunters is small. Since veal rather than beef is the staple meat abroad, Roggero's preparations are especially good -- but the astronomical price of veal is prohibitive. Still, this cook knows her ground rules for boiling, roasting, stewing, marinating, and searing to advantage for the most or least expensive cuts, There are adaptations from cuisines as far away as Bali, Martinique and Iran as well as a number of Mediterranean and French standbys. A luxury item -- not for the housewife who last year took Mrs. Nixon's meat loaf to her patriotic heart.