The chief drawback of this otherwise unexceptionable fish cookbook is a somewhat capricious organization. Basic techniques...

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THE FISH LOVER'S COOKBOOK

The chief drawback of this otherwise unexceptionable fish cookbook is a somewhat capricious organization. Basic techniques and preparations are spread out over two chapters; soups, stuffings, and undervalued fish (e.g., squid) take up three more; and the last half of the book is devoted to the more familiar favorites arranged in alphabetical order by species. The recipes are a huge cosmopolitan assemblage. The Londons are lavish sauciers who never get around to pointing out that most fish tastes best with a little melted butter and/or fresh lemon juice. But for all that they put together some very good preparations--poached cod fillets with onions and hard-boiled eggs; carp-roe and potato pancakes; or marinated and simply broiled shrimp with saffron, shallots, and garlic. The information about preparation techniques, however, is spotty--there are no instructions for basic sautÉing without a flour or crumb coating. There are also odd inconsistencies: salt is avoided but tamari soy sauce is added to things from pie crust to ""Turkist marinade."" The many good recipes can't quite overcome these basic problems of approach.

Pub Date: Oct. 1, 1980

ISBN: N/A

Page Count: -

Publisher: Rodale

Review Posted Online: N/A

Kirkus Reviews Issue: Oct. 1, 1980

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