This conducted tour of Philadelphia's Independence National Historical Park packs in more substantial history than one would expect, in addition to its quotient of personal footnotes -- on the house that Ben Franklin designed for efficiency but seldom had time to live in, Jefferson's modest lodgings with the Grafts and the first Philadelphia residence of first-lady-to-be Dolley Todd. The city's old churches -- including Lutheran, Roman Catholic, Jewish, Black Protestant and others -- testify to Philadelphia's long history of religious tolerance. And of course there's Independence Hall, which has housed Charles Willson Peale's natural history museum and the city dog pound as well as the framers of the Declaration of Independence. Especially for local collections and Bicentennial pilgrims, this of ficially sponsored guide (""in cooperation with the National Park Service"") with graceful pencil drawings is congenial enough to interest some stay at home history huffs as well.