In the section on cooking crabmeat the author quotes a San Francisco wharf ""old-timer,"" a Mr. Hogan (a sensible sort), who states firmly that ""the more you put with crab, the less you can taste the crab."" Most cooks of freshly landed fish would extend this to all fish cookery bare with lemon. But this book, based mostly on West Coast research, puts forth fish and shellfish recipes with all sorts of loud-to-insinuating companions; lime, apricot, banana, orange, ginger, wines of course. The many West Coast cuisine practices are incorporated, and there are sauces, salads and desserts to round out a seafood meal. Most of the fish utilized here may be found across the country, but fresh fish is always best. Gourmet fish and shellfish fare don't expect to try these on a hot rock in the woods.