IN THE KITCHEN WITH LOVE

Miss Loren is an accomplished cook and this essentially Italian cuisine (from her native Naples up to Rome) starts off with antipasti, goes through many varieties of pasta, unusual fish dishes; eggs and vegetables, meats (via techniques you do not habitually use -- the turkey is roast on a spit and the pork pot roasted), poultry and concluding with only a few ""sweets."" The methodology is not too difficult for the average cook; combinations are often unusual (crabmeat and apples; caviar and boiled dried beans); and in between sections there are slight discussions of smoking at the table (never), wines, fingers vs. cutlery; etc. etc. Al dente for the meal which is to be both substantial and elegant simultaneously.