With comments that run to ""fabulous,"" ""outstanding,"" ""excellent,"" and ""fantastically good,"" this is not a guide for the discerning eater. Sometimes, true, the decor seems to be the selling point rather than the food, in some cases ""they bend over backwards to please you""; but nothing about these 70 restaurant listings lifts them out of the newspaper-puff category or suggests that the co-compilers are particularly at home in the kitchen. The recipes solicited range from the obvious to--occasionally--the exquisite: e.g., from Oscar's undistinguished Braised Short Ribs (for which stock is merely optional) to Le Perroquet's Squabs with Sausage and Sauerkraut. Oddly, there are no American entries, which leaves out Genessee Depot's delicious desserts--and Chicagoans will note other omissions. Altogether, we'd trust Where To Eat in America (p. 1092) to guide us to Chicagoland's best before listening to this breezy pair--though they do get around.