THE GAME AND FISH MENU COOKBOOK: A Country Collection by Timothy E. Manion

THE GAME AND FISH MENU COOKBOOK: A Country Collection

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KIRKUS REVIEW

Game cookbooks by bona fide hunters can have a refreshing down-to-earth quality--when they don't remind you of kids running amok in the kitchen. Manion (who has had a TV show on game cookery) is certainly not out to challenge aristocratic offerings like Angus Cameron and Judith Jones' The L.L. Bean Game and Fish Cookbook (1983). He goes in for heavily flour-thickened soups and sauces (a walleye pike ""fish creole"" uses 1/4 cup of flour to 2-1/2 cups of canned tomatoes), energetic doses of bottled condiments (there's a wild duck with pecan stuffing, basted with a combination of catsup, Worcestershire sauce, A-1 sauce, and chili sauce), and startling uses of fruit (2 cups of cranberry juice in the baked beans). But dig further and you'll find serviceable, sensible versions of cole slaw, creamed potatoes, roast goose with potato stuffing, and classic Door County (Wisconsin) fish boil, innocent of dumb gourmet touches. The poultry section covers an unusual range of waterfowl, though some of the recipes are pretty gloppy; Manion's menus are endearingly unpretentious. Background material is on the skimpy side, and the cooking directions--often amateurishly written--should be followed with healthy skepticism, but game lovers of non-haute leanings will probably tune right in to this approach.

Pub Date: June 29th, 1987
Publisher: Weidenfeld & Nicolson