The story of how a stagestruck young Italian became the host to stage and screen is unpretentious but not without a certain mass appeal for the public that has learned the name of his restaurant from newspapers and radio. He keeps his progress from Italy, to London, conscription in his national army and emigration to New York, in 1907, uncomplicated; his jobs here, his marriage and the plunge into his own business have an even tenor that is broken when they are forced to move from their first location. The ups and downs and final recognition of Sardi's are embellished by the people he knew,- columnists, playwrights, producers, promoters, agents and the theater, radio and television performers themselves, by the groups who met and the deals that originated there. Full of table top chatter, this is topped off by recipes of some of the Sardi specialties. Backstage with a boniface has its interest in well known names, stellar attractions and good humored accounting.