THE TUSCAN COOKBOOK

After eight years in the small town of Camaiore--where fresh liver arrives on Tuesdays, chickens on Thursdays--Pezzini has observed and gathered this gracious offering of everyday Tuscan recipes. The fare is hearty, dependent on olive oil, bread (rather than rice of pasta), and wine: a 24-bottle cellar, half consisting of Chiantis, is suggested. Conventionally arranged (Antipasti, Peace, Verdure) with a small special section on basic preserves (olives or mushrooms in oil, tomato sauce), the recipes appear in numbered steps, often with brief introductory characterizations and relevant bits of folklore and history tossed in: Thomas Jefferson liked the polenta he was served in Florence so much he had it prepared the Tuscan way back home. Most recipes call for ingredients available here; when more exotic ones (black cabbage) are required, acceptable substitutes are indicated. Even if you never taste the Roast Hare with Mustard and Brandy, you'll value the many blendings of distinct flavors collected here.