YAMUNA'S TABLE

Devi, who wrote the esteemed and estimable Lord Krishna's Cuisine (1987), now offers a less extensive, less traditional collection of vegetarian recipes that have the same sumptuous appeal. The author has studied cooking in India and at the Cordon Bleu, a background she employs productively in such eclectic creations as a French-based ratatouille savarin with tomato coulis, seasoned with an Indian-style mix of mustard seeds, fennel seeds, ground coriander, and cilantro; and a ratatouille soup using olive oil, fresh ginger, toasted pumpkin seeds, and toasted cumin seeds- -but it would take many more examples to suggest her commanding range and rich appeal. Many cross-cultural cuisines seem arbitrary; Devi's is both well-grounded and inspired.