High ranking in the annals of mountaineering is this superb account of the Italian team's ascent of the problem peak, Gasherbrum IV, in the summer of 1960. Maraini, gives a quality of vitality and hazard to the daily drama of the record, conveying the beauties, perils, and emotional tensions involved. Another factor runs parallel -- the broad sweep of knowledge of the ethnic history of Baltistan, the chronology of successive ventures in the western Himalayas, the American climb of Gasherbrum I and the Japanese on Chogolisa simultaneously.