An entertaining and informative history of an unlikely subject.
The San Francisco Chronicle’s pop culture critic engagingly charts the rise of blue jeans from humble laborers’ togs to haute couture.
The familiar tale that Levi Strauss created these sturdy pants for miners during the California Gold Rush turns out to be an oversimplification. Sullivan explains that Nevada tailor Jacob Davis actually came up with blue jeans after a woodcutter’s wife came to him complaining that she couldn’t find trousers that stayed together at the seams. But Davis didn’t have the money to apply for a patent, so he partnered with Strauss, and before long his creations were the pants of choice for miners, loggers and cowboys. WWII helped create a market among the fairer sex. Women who went to work in factories took to wearing denim overalls, and even women who stayed home began to appreciate the material: For the upper-crust housewives who lost their domestic help to the war effort, Claire McCardell designed a denim housecoat with an attached oven mitt. In the 1950s, Hollywood bad boys embraced jeans (James Dean wore them in Rebel Without a Cause), and when teenagers adopted the pants, parents worried about a link between denim and delinquency. But by the beginning of the 21st century, jeans signified consumerism, not rebellion; shoppers at expensive New York boutiques could easily pay $200 for a pair of not-so-plain dungarees. The history-of-everyday-things genre sometimes strains credulity—does the story of salt really explain the rise and fall of the Roman Empire?—but Sullivan has pulled it off, showing that in blue jeans, we can see the history of work, leisure and gender roles in 20th-century America. Wonderfully chosen photos, such as a Life magazine shot of 1950s college girls slumming in baggy blue jeans, nicely complement the text.
An entertaining and informative history of an unlikely subject.Pub Date: Aug. 1, 2006
ISBN: 1-592-40214-3
Page Count: 304
Publisher: Gotham Books
Review Posted Online: May 19, 2010
Kirkus Reviews Issue: May 1, 2006
Chronology, photographs and personal knowledge combine to make a memorable commemorative presentation.
Jackie Kennedy's secret service agent Hill and co-author McCubbin team up for a follow-up to Mrs. Kennedy and Me (2012) in this well-illustrated narrative of those five days 50 years ago when President John F. Kennedy was assassinated.
Since Hill was part of the secret service detail assigned to protect the president and his wife, his firsthand account of those days is unique. The chronological approach, beginning before the presidential party even left the nation's capital on Nov. 21, shows Kennedy promoting his “New Frontier” policy and how he was received by Texans in San Antonio, Houston and Fort Worth before his arrival in Dallas. A crowd of more than 8,000 greeted him in Houston, and thousands more waited until 11 p.m. to greet the president at his stop in Fort Worth. Photographs highlight the enthusiasm of those who came to the airports and the routes the motorcades followed on that first day. At the Houston Coliseum, Kennedy addressed the leaders who were building NASA for the planned moon landing he had initiated. Hostile ads and flyers circulated in Dallas, but the president and his wife stopped their motorcade to respond to schoolchildren who held up a banner asking the president to stop and shake their hands. Hill recounts how, after Lee Harvey Oswald fired his fatal shots, he jumped onto the back of the presidential limousine. He was present at Parkland Hospital, where the president was declared dead, and on the plane when Lyndon Johnson was sworn in. Hill also reports the funeral procession and the ceremony in Arlington National Cemetery. “[Kennedy] would have not wanted his legacy, fifty years later, to be a debate about the details of his death,” writes the author. “Rather, he would want people to focus on the values and ideals in which he so passionately believed.”
Chronology, photographs and personal knowledge combine to make a memorable commemorative presentation.Pub Date: Nov. 19, 2013
ISBN: 978-1-4767-3149-0
Page Count: 256
Publisher: Gallery Books/Simon & Schuster
Review Posted Online: Sept. 20, 2013
Kirkus Reviews Issue: Oct. 1, 2013
BOOK REVIEW
BOOK REVIEW
SEEN & HEARD
A timely contribution to the discussion of a crucial issue.
A history of the right to vote in America.
Since the nation’s founding, many Americans have been uneasy about democracy. Law and policy expert Waldman (The Second Amendment: A Biography, 2014, etc.), president of New York University’s Brennan Center for Justice, offers a compelling—and disheartening—history of voting in America, from provisions of the Constitution to current debates about voting rights and campaign financing. In the Colonies, only white male property holders could vote and did so in public, by voice. With bribery and intimidation rampant, few made the effort. After the Revolution, many states eliminated property requirements so that men over 21 who had served in the militia could vote. But leaving voting rules to the states disturbed some lawmakers, inciting a clash between those who wanted to restrict voting and those “who sought greater democracy.” That clash fueled future debates about allowing freed slaves, immigrants, and, eventually, women to vote. In 1878, one leading intellectual railed against universal suffrage, fearing rule by “an ignorant proletariat and a half-taught plutocracy.” Voting corruption persisted in the 19th century, when adoption of the secret ballot “made it easier to stuff the ballot box” by adding “as many new votes as proved necessary.” Southern states enacted disenfranchising measures, undermining the 15th Amendment. Waldman traces the campaign for women’s suffrage; the Supreme Court’s dismal record on voting issues (including Citizens United); and the contentious fight to pass the Voting Rights Act of 1965, which “became a touchstone of consensus between Democrats and Republicans” and was reauthorized four times before the Supreme Court “eviscerated it in 2013.” Despite increased access to voting, over the years, turnout has fallen precipitously, and “entrenched groups, fearing change, have…tried to reduce the opportunity for political participation and power.” Waldman urges citizens to find a way to celebrate democracy and reinvigorate political engagement for all.
A timely contribution to the discussion of a crucial issue.Pub Date: Feb. 23, 2016
ISBN: 978-1-5011-1648-3
Page Count: 384
Publisher: Simon & Schuster
Review Posted Online: Nov. 28, 2015
Kirkus Reviews Issue: Dec. 15, 2015
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