If you're the kind of cook who can't follow a recipe but has to read three or four versions of a dish and then make your own, you can now do all your compilation from just one book and save your reading for the delightful historical boxes that punctuate this pleasing presentation of 20 classic American dishes. That's because each of the 20 themes, from apple pie (the opener here, perhaps because New Englanders have it for breakfast) to chili, chowders, and chocolate-chip cookies, is expressed in 12 traditional or innovative variations. Pot roasts, for example, can be Moravian-style with beer, Texas-style with chili, soured in marinade Pennsylvania-style, and so on. On the other hand, Schulz may convert you to faithful recipe following, for every version he presents has such separate and precise integrity you'll want to sample each in turn. Or how about a meatloaf or fried-chicken tasting? Surely there are at least a dozen ways to use this book. But whatever you do with it, it's a fetching composition by a skilled and sophisticated cook who tempers his nostalgia with a fresh and exacting palate.