Armenian cuisine falls somewhere near the Greek end of the Middle Eastern spectrum with Russian influence showing through here and there -- particularly in the fish entrees and other Caucasus specialities. Thus it's ideally suited to the middle of the road cook who might want to eke out the kebab/eggplant/tabouleh regimen with an occasional stuffed filet of sole or pheasant in wine. Indeed the variety, not to mention the number, of dishes presented here is staggering -- ranging all the way from titvash (the homemade pickled vegetables commonly served as appetizers) through soups (egg and lemon, lentil. . .), rice and bulghur pilafs, lavash bread and boeregs (savory fila pastries). Uvezian shepherds us through course after course with conscientious directions and notes, and though many might prefer a more personal guide to this virgin territory (the publisher claims a first) stand-up cooks will warm to the energetic way she maximizes fresh ingredients and minimizes mystique.