Though Tang himself came here from Bangkok in 1972, his restaurants--the first opened in L.A. in 1982, a twin in N.Y.C.'s Tribeca four years later--have as much to do with American enterprise and California style as with Thai cuisine. The food, commonly referred to as ``California Thai,'' is represented here by the ultratraditional Pad Thai, known as Thailand's national dish; by the restaurant's own chicken satÇ with peanut sauce and its special sauced duck; and by such hybrids as Bangkok Jambalaya, Thai Wonton (``Okay, I admit I'm pirating a Chinese dish here''), eggplant made with olive oil and pine nuts, a roasted pepper sauce well represented in recent Italian cookbooks, and an arugula salad with ingredients from Asia, California (the zinfandel), and Italy. Whatever the borrowings, though, Thai accents manage to predominate (you can't do the recipes without curry paste and Thai fish sauce) and California's breezy flair just gives it wings. It's an attractive mix.