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THE DRESSMAKER

None of the sentiments here ring true; worse, the carefully described clothes sound dated and drab.

Debut novelist Oberbeck takes fashion ever-so-seriously in this painfully earnest romance about a dressmaking genius who falls in love with a client who becomes his muse.

In a quiet village just outside Paris, Claude Reynaud carries on his family’s tailoring tradition, his routine enlivened by after-school visits from his three nephews. A talented dressmaker in his 40s, Claude has begun to develop a clientele of Parisian society women. One day he is hired to design the wedding dress for Valentine de Verlay, a beautiful young woman with perfect proportions and a swan neck (think Audrey Hepburn). Claude, whose wife Rose-Marie deserted him eight years earlier, is immediately smitten. And for no reason apparent to the reader, Valentine seems attracted to mousy Claude. Valentine and Claude steal a kiss at her engagement party. Then, at a rendezvous at a lake resort, they have sex so gauzy it seems downright chaste. Although Valentine claims she is drawn to Claude, when her fiancé, the loutish Victor, loses his job, she decides her duty is to marry him. Meanwhile, Claude is hired by a big fashion house in Paris, where he becomes the toast of the town based largely on his design for Valentine’s wedding dress. Having heard of his growing success, the avaricious Rose-Marie reclaims her place as his wife until Claude bribes her into a divorce. Valentine, now married and pregnant, moves with Victor to New York. Soon Claude travels there to see the spring fashion shows and of course runs into Valentine. Victor has become a drunken bully. After he hits Claude in a jealous rage, Claude realizes he has no future with Valentine. He returns to Paris and, after a chapter of gratuitous tragedy, takes up his life of design with new resolve.

None of the sentiments here ring true; worse, the carefully described clothes sound dated and drab.

Pub Date: July 6, 2006

ISBN: 0-8050-8033-3

Page Count: 320

Publisher: Henry Holt

Review Posted Online: May 19, 2010

Kirkus Reviews Issue: May 15, 2006

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CONCLAVE

An illuminating read for anyone interested in the inner workings of the Catholic Church; for prelate-fiction superfans, it...

Harris, creator of grand, symphonic thrillers from Fatherland (1992) to An Officer and a Spy (2014), scores with a chamber piece of a novel set in the Vatican in the days after a fictional pope dies.

Fictional, yes, but the nameless pontiff has a lot in common with our own Francis: He’s famously humble, shunning the lavish Apostolic Palace for a small apartment, and he is committed to leading a church that engages with the world and its problems. In the aftermath of his sudden death, rumors circulate about the pope’s intention to fire certain cardinals. At the center of the action is Cardinal Lomeli, Dean of the College of Cardinals, whose job it is to manage the conclave that will elect a new pope. He believes it is also his duty to uncover what the pope knew before he died because some of the cardinals in question are in the running to succeed him. “In the running” is an apt phrase because, as described by Harris, the papal conclave is the ultimate political backroom—albeit a room, the Sistine Chapel, covered with Michelangelo frescoes. Vying for the papal crown are an African cardinal whom many want to see as the first black pope, a press-savvy Canadian, an Italian arch-conservative (think Cardinal Scalia), and an Italian liberal who wants to continue the late pope’s campaign to modernize the church. The novel glories in the ancient rituals that constitute the election process while still grounding that process in the real world: the Sistine Chapel is fitted with jamming devices to thwart electronic eavesdropping, and the pressure to act quickly is increased because “rumours that the pope is dead are already trending on social media.”

An illuminating read for anyone interested in the inner workings of the Catholic Church; for prelate-fiction superfans, it is pure temptation.

Pub Date: Nov. 22, 2016

ISBN: 978-0-451-49344-6

Page Count: 304

Publisher: Knopf

Review Posted Online: Sept. 6, 2016

Kirkus Reviews Issue: Sept. 15, 2016

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THE SECRET HISTORY

The Brat Pack meets The Bacchae in this precious, way-too-long, and utterly unsuspenseful town-and-gown murder tale. A bunch of ever-so-mandarin college kids in a small Vermont school are the eager epigones of an aloof classics professor, and in their exclusivity and snobbishness and eagerness to please their teacher, they are moved to try to enact Dionysian frenzies in the woods. During the only one that actually comes off, a local farmer happens upon them—and they kill him. But the death isn't ruled a murder—and might never have been if one of the gang—a cadging sybarite named Bunny Corcoran—hadn't shown signs of cracking under the secret's weight. And so he too is dispatched. The narrator, a blank-slate Californian named Richard Pepen chronicles the coverup. But if you're thinking remorse-drama, conscience masque, or even semi-trashy who'll-break-first? page-turner, forget it: This is a straight gee-whiz, first-to-have-ever-noticed college novel—"Hampden College, as a body, was always strangely prone to hysteria. Whether from isolation, malice, or simple boredom, people there were far more credulous and excitable than educated people are generally thought to be, and this hermetic, overheated atmosphere made it a thriving black petri dish of melodrama and distortion." First-novelist Tartt goes muzzy when she has to describe human confrontations (the murder, or sex, or even the ping-ponging of fear), and is much more comfortable in transcribing aimless dorm-room paranoia or the TV shows that the malefactors anesthetize themselves with as fate ticks down. By telegraphing the murders, Tartt wants us to be continually horrified at these kids—while inviting us to semi-enjoy their manneristic fetishes and refined tastes. This ersatz-Fitzgerald mix of moralizing and mirror-looking (Jay McInerney shook and poured the shaker first) is very 80's—and in Tartt's strenuous version already seems dated, formulaic. Les Nerds du Mal—and about as deep (if not nearly as involving) as a TV movie.

Pub Date: Sept. 16, 1992

ISBN: 1400031702

Page Count: 592

Publisher: Knopf

Review Posted Online: May 19, 2010

Kirkus Reviews Issue: July 1, 1992

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