A slow-motion gastronomical feast and a rare chance for gourmet enthusiasts to witness the creative process behind some of...

THE SORCERER'S APPRENTICES

A SEASON IN THE KITCHEN AT FERRAN ADRIÀ'S ELBULLI

Granted unprecedented access to the inner workings of perhaps the world’s most renowned restaurant, Time magazine Spain correspondent Abend follows 35 apprentices through the rigors of kitchen life and culinary invention under the tutelage of the “most famous chef in the world.”

Few restaurants are more revered than elBulli in Catalonia, Spain, a five-time winner of Restaurant magazine’s Best Restaurant in the World. Its owner-chef, Ferran Adrià, who has three Michelin stars, is universally recognized as the most influential pioneer of the avant-garde cuisine movement sometimes known as “molecular gastronomy,” a seriously playful style of cooking emphasizing textural, visual, olfactory and gustatory wit and deconstruction. It was at elBulli that Adrià and his chefs Eduard Xatruch and Oriol Castro invented those startling savory foams, liquid-nitrogen sorbets and spherified sauces that “permi[t] the diner to eat liquids, not drink them.” Getting a table at elBulli is the gourmet equivalent of winning the lottery, and the cooks who come to work—as unpaid apprentices—in its kitchens start out thinking themselves just as lucky. Ostensibly, these apprentices—the stagiaires—are the story’s focus. We learn about their lives, career aspirations and frustrations with the surprisingly tedious work required. Unfortunately, few of the stagiaires ever come to life enough for the reader to care, and the narrative occasionally wanders. No wonder, perhaps: Like the fresh apprentices, Abend seems too awestruck by Adrià’s genius to do more than offer praise. In a typical formulation, she claims, for example, that his work “represents the greatest rupture ever in the history of cuisine.” Nonetheless, Adrià isn’t the real hero—it’s the food. The author provides countless descriptions of an undeniably dazzling creative process and of foods that, even on paper, have the power to delight and amuse.

A slow-motion gastronomical feast and a rare chance for gourmet enthusiasts to witness the creative process behind some of the world’s most innovative cuisine.

Pub Date: March 22, 2011

ISBN: 978-1-4391-7555-2

Page Count: 256

Publisher: Free Press

Review Posted Online: Jan. 8, 2011

Kirkus Reviews Issue: Jan. 15, 2011

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IN MY PLACE

From the national correspondent for PBS's MacNeil-Lehrer Newshour: a moving memoir of her youth in the Deep South and her role in desegregating the Univ. of Georgia. The eldest daughter of an army chaplain, Hunter-Gault was born in what she calls the ``first of many places that I would call `my place' ''—the small village of Due West, tucked away in a remote little corner of South Carolina. While her father served in Korea, Hunter-Gault and her mother moved first to Covington, Georgia, and then to Atlanta. In ``L.A.'' (lovely Atlanta), surrounded by her loving family and a close-knit black community, the author enjoyed a happy childhood participating in activities at church and at school, where her intellectual and leadership abilities soon were noticed by both faculty and peers. In high school, Hunter-Gault found herself studying the ``comic-strip character Brenda Starr as I might have studied a journalism textbook, had there been one.'' Determined to be a journalist, she applied to several colleges—all outside of Georgia, for ``to discourage the possibility that a black student would even think of applying to one of those white schools, the state provided money for black students'' to study out of state. Accepted at Michigan's Wayne State, the author was encouraged by local civil-rights leaders to apply, along with another classmate, to the Univ. of Georgia as well. Her application became a test of changing racial attitudes, as well as of the growing strength of the civil-rights movement in the South, and Gault became a national figure as she braved an onslaught of hostilities and harassment to become the first black woman to attend the university. A remarkably generous, fair-minded account of overcoming some of the biggest, and most intractable, obstacles ever deployed by southern racists. (Photographs—not seen.)

Pub Date: Nov. 1, 1992

ISBN: 0-374-17563-2

Page Count: 192

Publisher: Farrar, Straus and Giroux

Review Posted Online: May 20, 2010

Kirkus Reviews Issue: Sept. 1, 1992

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DEAR MR. HENSHAW

Possibly inspired by the letters Cleary has received as a children's author, this begins with second-grader Leigh Botts' misspelled fan letter to Mr. Henshaw, whose fictitious book itself derives from the old take-off title Forty Ways W. Amuse a Dog. Soon Leigh is in sixth grade and bombarding his still-favorite author with a list of questions to be answered and returned by "next Friday," the day his author report is due. Leigh is disgruntled when Mr. Henshaw's answer comes late, and accompanied by a set of questions for Leigh to answer. He threatens not to, but as "Mom keeps nagging me about your dumb old questions" he finally gets the job done—and through his answers Mr. Henshaw and readers learn that Leigh considers himself "the mediumest boy in school," that his parents have split up, and that he dreams of his truck-driver dad driving him to school "hauling a forty-foot reefer, which would make his outfit add up to eighteen wheels altogether. . . . I guess I wouldn't seem so medium then." Soon Mr. Henshaw recommends keeping a diary (at least partly to get Leigh off his own back) and so the real letters to Mr. Henshaw taper off, with "pretend," unmailed letters (the diary) taking over. . . until Leigh can write "I don't have to pretend to write to Mr. Henshaw anymore. I have learned to say what I think on a piece of paper." Meanwhile Mr. Henshaw offers writing tips, and Leigh, struggling with a story for a school contest, concludes "I think you're right. Maybe I am not ready to write a story." Instead he writes a "true story" about a truck haul with his father in Leigh's real past, and this wins praise from "a real live author" Leigh meets through the school program. Mr. Henshaw has also advised that "a character in a story should solve a problem or change in some way," a standard juvenile-fiction dictum which Cleary herself applies modestly by having Leigh solve his disappearing lunch problem with a burglar-alarmed lunch box—and, more seriously, come to recognize and accept that his father can't be counted on. All of this, in Leigh's simple words, is capably and unobtrusively structured as well as valid and realistic. From the writing tips to the divorced-kid blues, however, it tends to substitute prevailing wisdom for the little jolts of recognition that made the Ramona books so rewarding.

Pub Date: Aug. 22, 1983

ISBN: 143511096X

Page Count: 133

Publisher: Morrow/HarperCollins

Review Posted Online: Oct. 16, 2011

Kirkus Reviews Issue: Aug. 1, 1983

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