Eighteen years after her first book, the well-regarded Perla Meyers' Seasonal Kitchen, and 12 years since her last major one, Perla Meyers' From Market to Kitchen Cookbook, this Spanish-born American author is still extolling local seasonal produce but also drawing on the global pantry that has become available in the interim. The present collection, still seasonally arranged, embraces both old-fashioned and nouvelle concepts, owes much to French and Italian motifs, and tends to company fare, dressed up in sauces, ``marmalades'' (not necessarily sweet or fruity), and various mixed toppings and trimmings. But none of this is tricky or elaborate, nor are Meyers's combinations capricious. Her hefty compilation of dishes, from soy-sauced black-bean salad or double- squash soup to roasted red-pepper quiche or veal medallions with chanterelles and apples, is well timed to meet an emerging demand for dishes that are original but not outrÇ and meals that are a little more formal than the snappy, emphatic features of the 80's but lighter and easier than the gourmet clunkers of a generation past.
