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DOUBLE EXPOSURE

RESURVEYING THE WEST WITH TIMOTHY O'SULLIVAN, AMERICA'S MOST MYSTERIOUS WAR PHOTOGRAPHER

A riveting, highly valuable reexamination of the West, compelling to anyone interested in its history.

A fascinating account of a crucial photographer of westward expansion and a reckoning with the colonization of the American West.

Timothy O’Sullivan (1840-1882) was a legendary photographer of the Civil War who also traveled across the West on several surveys as the expedition photographer. The resulting images, many included in this book, are haunting. They portray stark landscapes, mining, and the colonization of the West at a time when violence and desperation were high: “The West—where citizenship was disputed, where sovereignty was devalued or ignored—would become a battle site, and not just with guns but with miners and dams, with vigilantes and nativists, with ranches and land grabs made by Congress-backed corporations.” O’Sullivan’s photos document a time when Indigenous land rights were trampled, treaties ignored, and white settlers scrambled to survive. It’s a fascinating and essential era in American history, a period that historian Richard Maxwell Brown has called the “Western Civil War of Incorporation.” Sullivan chronicles his visits to several key locations in O’Sullivan’s photos, exploring the violence wrought on the landscape and people. These sites include Death Valley, where O’Sullivan developed photos in a mule-drawn ambulance he converted into a dark room; Panama, where he photographed the dense jungle before the construction of the canal; and various mines, where he took the first known underground photo, risking the flare of magnesium to do so. Sullivan’s research is meticulous and his storytelling engaging. O’Sullivan is an intriguing figure, but what is most fascinating is the author’s examination of westward expansion as a kind of war of both arms and ideas. The photos, writes the author, allow us “to reframe not just the American landscape but the stories we tell ourselves about America, the things we believe and feel.”

A riveting, highly valuable reexamination of the West, compelling to anyone interested in its history.

Pub Date: April 23, 2024

ISBN: 9780374151164

Page Count: 448

Publisher: Farrar, Straus and Giroux

Review Posted Online: Jan. 30, 2024

Kirkus Reviews Issue: March 1, 2024

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THE LOOK

Not so deep, but a delightful tip of the hat to the pleasures—and power—of glamour.

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A coffee-table book celebrates Michelle Obama’s sense of fashion.

Illustrated with hundreds of full-color photographs, Obama’s chatty latest book begins with some school portraits from the author’s childhood in Chicago and fond memories of back-to-school shopping at Sears, then jumps into the intricacies of clothing oneself as the spouse of a presidential candidate and as the first lady. “People looked forward to the outfits, and once I got their attention, they listened to what I had to say. This is the soft power of fashion,” she says. Obama is grateful and frank about all the help she got along the way, and the volume includes a long section written by her primary wardrobe stylist, Koop—28 years old when she first took the job—and shorter sections by makeup artists and several hair stylists, who worked with wigs and hair extensions as Obama transitioned back to her natural hair, and grew out her bangs, at the end of her husband’s second term. Many of the designers of the author’s gowns, notably Jason Wu, who designed several of her more striking outfits, also contribute appreciative memories. Besides candid and more formal photographs, the volume features many sketches of her gowns by their designers, closeups on details of those gowns, and magazine covers from Better Homes & Gardens to Vogue. The author writes that as a Black woman, “I was under a particularly white-hot glare, constantly appraised for whether my outfits were ‘acceptable’ and ‘appropriate,’ the color of my skin somehow inviting even more judgment than the color of my dresses.” Overall, though, this is generally a canny, upbeat volume, with little in the way of surprising revelations.

Not so deep, but a delightful tip of the hat to the pleasures—and power—of glamour.

Pub Date: Nov. 4, 2025

ISBN: 9780593800706

Page Count: 304

Publisher: Crown

Review Posted Online: Nov. 7, 2025

Kirkus Reviews Issue: Jan. 1, 2026

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TANQUERAY

A blissfully vicarious, heartfelt glimpse into the life of a Manhattan burlesque dancer.

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A former New York City dancer reflects on her zesty heyday in the 1970s.

Discovered on a Manhattan street in 2020 and introduced on Stanton’s Humans of New York Instagram page, Johnson, then 76, shares her dynamic history as a “fiercely independent” Black burlesque dancer who used the stage name Tanqueray and became a celebrated fixture in midtown adult theaters. “I was the only black girl making white girl money,” she boasts, telling a vibrant story about sex and struggle in a bygone era. Frank and unapologetic, Johnson vividly captures aspects of her former life as a stage seductress shimmying to blues tracks during 18-minute sets or sewing lingerie for plus-sized dancers. Though her work was far from the Broadway shows she dreamed about, it eventually became all about the nightly hustle to simply survive. Her anecdotes are humorous, heartfelt, and supremely captivating, recounted with the passion of a true survivor and the acerbic wit of a weathered, street-wise New Yorker. She shares stories of growing up in an abusive household in Albany in the 1940s, a teenage pregnancy, and prison time for robbery as nonchalantly as she recalls selling rhinestone G-strings to prostitutes to make them sparkle in the headlights of passing cars. Complemented by an array of revealing personal photographs, the narrative alternates between heartfelt nostalgia about the seedier side of Manhattan’s go-go scene and funny quips about her unconventional stage performances. Encounters with a variety of hardworking dancers, drag queens, and pimps, plus an account of the complexities of a first love with a drug-addled hustler, fill out the memoir with personality and candor. With a narrative assist from Stanton, the result is a consistently titillating and often moving story of human struggle as well as an insider glimpse into the days when Times Square was considered the Big Apple’s gloriously unpolished underbelly. The book also includes Yee’s lush watercolor illustrations.

A blissfully vicarious, heartfelt glimpse into the life of a Manhattan burlesque dancer.

Pub Date: July 12, 2022

ISBN: 978-1-250-27827-2

Page Count: 192

Publisher: St. Martin's

Review Posted Online: July 27, 2022

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